Lockhart Smokehouse

There is a lot of barbecue in Dallas and much of it is fine. Lockhart Smokehouse is the one worth the drive.

Lockhart Smokehouse draws on the barbecue tradition of Lockhart, Texas, a town famous for its smoked meats, and it keeps the experience simple. You queue at a counter. You order by weight. It arrives on butcher paper. The focus is firmly on the meat. Order the brisket — ask for moist, not lean — and add a jalapeño cheese sausage link for the table.

It suits a group better than it looks. Ordering by the pound means you are not negotiating twelve separate menu choices, and the sides are ordinary in the best way: beans, slaw, potato salad. Children who claim not to like barbecue will eat sausage.

Going earlier in the day is a good bet. Popular meats can sell out, especially on busy weekends. When you’re finished, Bishop Arts is nearby and worth exploring before you head back.

Sliced smoked beef brisket served on butcher paper at Lockhart Smokehouse